Esquites: Mexican Corn in a Cup

Vegan chili

• 5-minute taco bowls
• 6 ears of corn, or 20 ounces/(567 grams) good-quality frozen corn
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) safflower oil
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons (28 grams) mayonnaise
• ½ teaspoon chili powder
• ½ teaspoon fine sea salt
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice
• 2 scallions, white and green parts sliced

Handful of cilantro leaves and tender stems, chopped

• 2 ounces (57 grams) grated cotija cheese

1. First you’ll char the corn in a heavy pan, tossing occasionally but mostly letting it sit until it browns in lots of places.
2. While the corn cooks and then cools a bit, mix up the dressing right in the serving bowl.
3. Add the corn, scallions, cilantro, and cotija to the bowl.
4. Give it all a good toss and serve warm or at room temperature.
5. Shuck the corn and cut the kernels off the cobs.
6. Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a cast iron or other heavy skillet. When it shimmers, add the corn kernels and let sit for a few minutes to start browning. Stir and let sit again. Repeat this process until there is nice browning in lots of spots, 10 to 15 minutes total.
7. Add the minced garlic to the skillet and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Remove from heat and let cool for at least 10 minutes, until just warm.
8. In a serving bowl, mix together the mayonnaise, chili powder, salt, pepper, and lime juice.
9. Add corn, scallions, cilantro, and cotija. Toss gently to combine well. Taste for seasoning and add more of anything you like. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Good-quality frozen corn works great in this recipe and saves the effort of shucking. 20 ounces of frozen corn equals 6 ears, or close enough. Fresh corn is, of course, great too.

Cotija cheese is a salty, tangy, Mexican cow's milk cheese. It comes fresh or aged, but the commercially aged version is much easier to find in many parts of the U.S. It's bright white and crumbles or grates beautifully. If you can't find it, you could substitute cow's milk feta.

Chili powder refers to the spice blend, not pure ground chili.

Safflower oil is my high-smoke-point, neutral-tasting vegetable oil of choice. You can substitute another oil that has similar properties, such as canola, sunflower, peanut, corn, or vegetable oil blend.

You can make esquites up to about 24 hours in advance. Once cooled, keep tightly sealed in the fridge until about 30 minutes before serving time.

Store leftovers in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week.