Cheddar-And-Onion Smashed Burgers

• 16 thin bread-and-butter pickle slices, patted dry

Four 4-inch potato buns, buttered and toasted

• 1 1/4 pounds ground beef chuck (30 percent fat)

Salt and freshly ground pepper

• 2 small onions, sliced paper thin
• 4 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, sliced

Umami dust, for sprinkling (optional, see Note)

1. Heat a cast-iron griddle until very hot. Layer the pickle slices on the bottom buns.
2. Without overworking the meat, loosely form it into 4 balls and place them on the griddle. Cook the meatballs over moderately high heat for 30 seconds. Using a sturdy large spatula, flatten each ball into a 5-inch round patty. Season the patties with salt and pepper and cook for 2 minutes, until well seared. Press a handful of sliced onions onto each patty. Using the spatula, carefully flip each burger so the onions are on the bottom. Top with the cheese and cook for 2 minutes. Cover with a roasting pan and cook just until the cheese is melted, 1 minute more. Transfer the burgers with the onions to the buns and sprinkle with umami dust. Top with the buns and serve.