A Homemade Cheesesteak Is a Thing of Beauty

Toppings

• Ketchup, hot sauce, or a swipe of mayo are all fair game—though Philly natives let the plain sandwich speak for itself. We definitely want peppers and onions on our sandwich though.

Cheese

• Sharp cheddar or provolone don’t melt that well, which is why we mix them with American (the meltiest of all). We went for a 50/50 split of American and mild provolone. But for those who swear by Cheez Whiz, we won't stop you.

Meat

• Cheesesteaks call for well-marbled cuts of beef that will sizzle in their own fat and cook up juicy. Our meat of choice to fit that bill: boneless beef short ribs. They’re relatively affordable, have an ideal fat quotient, and (bonus) come in a neat, compact shape that’s easy to slice.We stand by boneless short ribs, but if you want to splurge for boneless rib eye, by all means do it. For a more budget-friendly cut, either sirloin or brisket would be a good choice.

Meat. Cheese. Bread.

• Toppings. We've got all of building materials, now it's time to start constructing an architectural wonder. You know, the kind you can eat. Follow these four steps (and a few insider tips) to the perfect cheesesteak.

1. 1—Sauté Bell Peppers and Onions
2. Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium-high. Add onions and bell peppers and season generously with salt and black pepper. Cook, stirring often at first then only occasionally as vegetables soften, adjusting heat as needed and adding a splash or so of water if vegetables are browning too quickly, until golden brown and very tender, 25–30 minutes. Remove pot from heat, add vinegar, and give everything a good stir. Taste and season with more salt if needed.
3. Do ahead: Vegetables can be cooked 3 days ahead. Let cool, then cover and chill. Reheat before assembling sandwiches.
4. 2—Freeze the Meat
5. Place short ribs on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and freeze, uncovered, until firm around the edges but still yielding in the center, 45–60 minutes.
6. Why We…Freeze the Beef
7. The meat for a cheesesteak is typically shaved super thin on a deli slicer before it’s cooked. To mimic that, we firm up the beef in the freezer, making it easier to slice thinly by hand.
8. 3—Slice the Meat
9. Cut short ribs in half crosswise, then lengthwise into very thin slices. (Shown above: It’s better to have thinner, less-regular slices than thick, even slices. Either way, don’t stress; whatever you do will be more than fine.) Divide meat into 8 portions (about 8 oz. each), using sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap as dividers.
10. Do ahead: Meat can be sliced 1 day ahead (it will start to oxidize after that). Cover tightly and chill, or freeze up to 1 week and thaw before cooking.
11. To create a cheesesteak’s signature shreddy layers, use one spatula or heavy-duty scraper to anchor small bundles of meat to the griddle, then use another spatula to pull it apart (see center photo above). Don’t worry about getting the beef thoroughly browned; this stage is about breaking up and tenderizing the meat as it starts to cook.
12. Slice bread in half lengthwise, keeping a long side intact. Heat a large griddle across 2 burners over medium—a flick of water should sizzle on contact. (Or use a large cast-iron skillet and cook 1 portion at a time.) Lightly coat griddle with vegetable oil. Place 2 portions of meat (about 1 lb.) on griddle; season generously with salt and pepper. Cook, pressing down and pulling slices apart using 2 metal spatulas, until halfway cooked through (you should still see some raw spots). Scoot meat into 2 oblong portions no more than 1" high and top with some onion–bell pepper mixture. Top with 2 slices American cheese and 2 slices provolone cheese per pile. Cook, undisturbed, until meat is browned and crisp underneath and cheese is melted, about 4 minutes. Transfer each portion to a roll; slice in half crosswise. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Serve topped as desired.
13. Do ahead: Sandwiches can be made 20 minutes ahead; immediately wrap in parchment paper, then foil.